No choice but to aim and fly-Rex Huffman

Sometimes it seems kneeboarders are always talking about what they don’t get. Recognition for design breakthroughs, being the first to explore tube-riding, first to properly engage the pocket in powerful waves, get airborne, for being able to take on big waves with small boards. “It’s not fair” has almost become a mantra recited whenever groups of kneeloes get together.  We’re proudly unconventional but too often complain that we’re not accepted by the mainstream. We at legless.tv are sick to death of hearing this stuff: we think it’s gone on long enough. Good surfing is good surfing and it matters not a jot where, when or how it’s done, nor by whom. The way we see it, the only recognition worth having comes from those with wisdom grown from experience. That’s true respect, and it only ever goes to those who earn it. Those who earn it aren’t primarily motivated by a need for it, but they value it highly once they achieve it. Respect is like love and happiness in that those who are driven by the need to achieve it will never really find it. It’s a beautiful paradox. You must give before you can receive. Surrender yourself to find yourself.

What we’re posting here is an extract from some writing by a man who made his reputation at San Diego’s Big Rock during the mid 70’s. It came to us as part of an email exchange with Steen last year. It was not written with publication in mind. There’s no attempt here to make more out of what’s being related than should be there. It’s a simple statement of facts as recollected by the person who brought them into being. In 1977 a non-stand-up surfing Expression Session was held at Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore. Rex Huffman won it in big waves, riding a little board. Here is his story, in his own words. “Honi soit qui mal y pense.”

“Whenever the North shore gets large, the coast and adjacent areas vibrate with the impact of the waves. I didn’t sleep well the night before the contest because of this vibration - that and fear. It was still dark when I got up from my floor bed and made oatmeal and raisins for breakfast. The house and earth were shaking from the surf. I was spooked but also pumped. Today was the day: the North Shore Expression Session that had invited anyone to kneeboard, bellyboard, boogie-board and bodysurf sanctioned Pipeline. The contest was not for surfers, in fact Rory Russell and Mike Armstrong were the water patrol in the line up to keep any intruders out. There were about 30-40 kneeboarders from all over the world. My brothers Mark and Eric and many of our good San Diego friends were there in force to compete. I remember names like Ray Pina and a handful of other good riders but San Diego definitely had the best show up representing the U.S. I remember seeing George Greenough taking movies from the beach. It was monster Pipeline, hitting the outer reef at probably 20’ and doubling up and re stacking and exploding even harder at inside main peak. It was a machine for 12 hours, dawn to dusk. Howling offshore winds, thick, nasty and throwing. I was riding the only board I had, a 5’2” Lis Fish with twin fin set up. No leashes, they weren’t yet allowed.

“The kneeboarding event went off first. Mark and Eric and myself were all in different 5 man heats. I was in the first heat and ran towards the river in front of Pipeline to hopefully get swept around the line up without getting destroyed by the shorebreak. I went head to head with Ray Pina and a few other guys. This was the largest and best Pipe I had ever seen to date. Surviving would take every bit of effort I could muster. I kept my eyes on Rory Russell because he was point man guarding the break for our contest. Only Lopez surfed the Pipe better than Rory back in the 70’s. When he paddled, I paddled. He was talking to himself a great deal, more than likely disgusted at not being able to surf this perfect day! I followed him over a rogue set that wiped out the 4 competitors behind me. He looked at me and did a head bob, clueing me in to be ready for something. I thought it was a fog bank coming at me but it was a huge set, reforming and growing right in front of me. I spun around and started digging with everything I had. Rory was laughing and encouraging me to keep paddling. I did everything I could do and the wave picked me up and launched me like a rag doll. I fell into the pit and went up and over a couple of times. It was absolutely horrifying.

“The good thing about Pipeline is its close proximity to the beach and safety. My vest had ripped off and one of my Churchill fins was gone along with my board. I hit the beach coughing up water and foam and sand. I ran towards Rocky Point. I found my swim fin bobbing in the foam about 100 yards down the beach. My board was in an eddy another 50 yards out. Time was burning but these were 45 minute sessions and I was young, so … all good. I knew right then and there that I had just survived the worst wipeout in my young life and I was shaken but alive and well. I paddled right back out, spun around on the next monster that came at me and once again with Rory’s encouragement I paddled for my life. This wave didn’t take me, I took it: I screamed down the face making S-turns to avoid getting sucked back up. I pulled that off and laid out the heaviest bottom turn I had ever made. There was just so much water moving and girth. The rooster spray off my turn let me know I was In complete control: no spin out or stutter cross bump hit me. I leaned forward and saw a gaping backdoor hole building in front of me. I had no choice but to aim and fly. It threw so far in front and over me that I felt like I was in a tunnel going through a mountain. It went on for a good 6-8 seconds at least (or so it seemed). It ended with the classic firehose water blast from behind me but I held on and rode this beast down to the end.

“I picked off a few more in other heats that day but nothing like that monster. This was my day: I never lost a heat. Mark and Eric had much harder times than I did but that’s Pipeline for you: if you dance with the devil you have to watch your feet. This was a huge step for knee boarding and for me personally. Respect was earned and given that day to all kneeboarders. I did not survive big Pipe, I was riding it fair and square for everyone to see. It was a good thing for sure. Looking back it was unfortunate Peter Crawford, Lis and many other better riders were not there. I realized then and there that I didn’t like contests. Surfing was a free sport and not a competition. I didn’t care for the extra drama that went with competition. I only competed in one other contest after that and then never again. The respect was universal. When I came home from the North Shore that year it was all good no matter where I surfed. They never held another Expression Session again so I had nothing to defend which I was grateful for. Contests involve a great deal of luck in my opinion. The best guy does not necessarily win. The luck of wave choice, wave count,  judges and conditions decide the winner many times.”

Rex Huffman 2010

www.jagmediaproductions.com

Bottom Turn Image: Jeff Divine

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